Where to eat

The rumors are true - food in Lisbon is fantastic. You probably can’t go wrong, but I have some favorites from living here for a few years. Some of these you’ll find as part of the culinary canon and others will be entirely off the radar from tourists.

I organized this list up into the two areas where we split our time: Lisbon and Sintra. I assigned an emoji rating to each place; 1 emoji being the most casual or cheapest, 4 emojis being the fanciest or most expensive. I included one Michelin star restaurant, my favorite one, just in case you’re looking for that kind of experience.

Keep in mind - these are Lisbon prices. Rachel and I recently took some friends from New York out for dinner and they assumed that the bill for all four of us was a split check for each person. A ranking of 💵💵💵 translates to about $40 per person with drinks.

You’ll want to make reservations as soon as possible for every spot on the list except for Mercado de Campo de Ourique. For Bottega di Gio, text me and I’ll make them for you with Barbara.

Have some more time and want to read more about adventures in Lisbon? Keep reading.

Lisbon

Mercado de Campo de Ourique

Where locals go to have the authentic experience that tourists try to emulate at Time Out Market.

• The Campo de Ourique neighborhood was Lisbon’s first “planned” community. One of two real grid pattern areas in central Lisbon, Campo de Ourique sits on top of a hill in the northwest part of town and is home to Portuguese families. The neighborhood is a self-contained village and residents almost try not to leave.
• Next to the neighborhoods church is a market that has been operating for more than a century.
• Most stalls feature tiny restaurants and the successful ones graduate to become storefronts in the area.
• One stall has a great wine bar and another has a fun gin & tonic bar.
• I recommend going in the evening - they’ll have soccer games playing, families gathering, life happening.

Pateo de Avillez

Modern Portuguese food that plays the hits.

• A famous Portuguese chef took over an entire building in the Chiado neighborhood and split it up into several smaller restaurants.
• Pateo is my favorite - housed inside the covered court yard of the building.
• Probably the most “popular” spot on this list.

Memoria

The Italian restaurant that you wish was on your block growing up.

• Also in Campo de Ourique.
• In the central square is the most wonderful, laid back but chic, Italian restaurant.
• Italian food in Lisbon? Trust me.

Tasca da Esquina

The Modern Portuguese spot where actual Portuguese people eat.

• Also in Campo de Ourique, the crown jewel of one of the city’s most beloved chef’s restaurant group.
• Really phenomenal tasting menu that will walk you through some of the best Portuguese classics.

O Velho Eurico

An ancient greasy spoon that a bunch of young kids purchased and overhauled while keeping the soul intact.

• Portugal has a restaurant concept called a “tasca” which translates to a classic dive bar/restaurant, almost always run by a family.
• O Velho Eurico is closer to the tourist parts of town and is the favorite of my Portuguese friends.

Bottega di Gio

The Italian place where everyone knows your name.

• Also in Campo de Ourique (sure, that’s a theme, but it’s because it’s the city’s best neighborhood and is untouched by tourism).
• Barbara (from Milan) runs the front of the house and her husband (from Sardinia) cooks.
• The daily specials menu is always gospel, though you can order classic Italian food too, but I recommend just asking Barbara what she suggests today for both food and wine.
• I go here 3-4 times per month. I am not joking. If you go and tell Barbara that you know “Sam the Texan”, you will have an absolute blast. I promise.

Sem Vergonha

Portuguese seafood beer restaurant with a perfect outdoor patio where friends close it down on Saturday nights and families spend entire Sunday afternoons.

• This sits in the closest residential neighborhood to the center of town (that tourists don’t visit)
• Worth the visit just to experience life as a local.
• I have taken literally every single friend that visits to this and every one mentions it as their favorite spot.

Drogaria

A hidden date night spot with the city’s best wine list.

• In the embassy neighborhood and, if you’re up for it, the walk back to most hotels is a great route.

100 Maneiras

The city’s best Michelin spot.

• Absolutely the most interesting restaurant in town; opened by a Bosnian chef who is infamous in Portuguese culinary circles for being brash and a genius.
• This one is a little confusing - they also operate Bistro 100 Maneiras which is their more casual spot; if you want the Michelin star experience, you want just 100 Maneiras.

SakeMico

The city’s best Japanese restaurant; an absolute hidden gym.

• Hidden under an apartment building across the street from the British Embassy is the best Japanese restaurant you have ever visited.
• Wild and weird sake collection and an izakaya and sushi menu that is too good to be true.
• Quiet, casual, with jazz playing on the speakers and a staff that actually cares about the place and the experience.

Sintra

Bar do Fundo

The beach restaurant that you thought only existed in movies.

• The perfect end to a daytrip in Sintra; takes online reservations (definitely needed)
• A classic beach seafood restaurant (literally on my favorite beach) that was purchased by a young crew a couple years ago and converted into one of my favorite restaurants in the country while retaining the beachside charm

O Padeiro

The village grill in our particular region of Sintra.

• Genuienly locals only, but they’ll be thrilled to see you, and the food is superb.
• True Portuguese classics.
• Great dinner spot after hiking the nearby trails.

Aldeia da Praia

Former campground turned into the best food truck court you’ll find - complete with beer from a great local craft brewery.

• Options include sushi, pizza, burgers, thai food
• Full cocktail bar
• In the mornings there is a great cafe that does pancakes and other breakfast food

Mela Canela

Vegan cafe based in the heart of the actual village of Sintra.